Thursday 9th December - Kolkata

Calcutta station was mad with hundreds of people milling round, many of them staring at us.  I decided that when people were staring I would say hello to them.  A good plan in theory.  However, in practise nigh on impossible to say hello so many times.

Arrived at the Hotel Lytton in the heart of Calcutta and were wowed by the décor.  Stained and hand made glass everywhere in striking patterns. We were even more impressed when we saw our spotlessly clean room that was massive and housed a table and chairs, pull out sofa with coffee table and a huge bed.  After a quick shower and change of clothes we went in search of food as we hadn’t eaten for about 20 hours.

Stumbled across a small veg restaurant and had a thali that was different to the ones we had previously but still just as tasty.  Mooched around the streets for a while getting our bearings and of course attracting the stares before we went to the Indian Museum, the largest in Asia.  The natural history section was good but could have been better if the exhibits were cleaned.  I think the museum was opened in 1950 and didn’t look as if it had been cleaned since.  Some of the statues from the 10^th century were stunning in their detail.

We started to look around the geological department, I love looking at rocks but was sadly disappointed.  Some of the cases were so dusty that you could not see the exhibits inside.  We did laugh when we saw the albino tiger that was so dirty and dusty that he was yellowy brown in colour.

Walked around for a while and managed to attract a shopkeeper who was almost on par for persistence as the rickshaw driver from the previous day.  We retreated to the hotel for a drink to shake him off.  

There was a chap in the bar boasting to the barman that he had 17 cars and then thought he should tell us that he has been to Australia.  We acted suitably impressed before beating a retreat to our room.  Had a bit of a nap and watched some tv before showering and going in search of food.

Found a great restaurant full of locals and had a great meal for about £2.00 each.  Walked around the streets and attracted yet another shopkeeper who was keen to tell us that his grandfather was in the British Army and his mother who was 115 got 400 rupees per month from the British Government and did we want to buy pashminas, shawls or scarves.  We walked off most of our dinner and came back to the hotel and said goodnight to our new friend.  I am sure he will be waiting for us in the morning and by now the rickshaw driver from Varanasi will be here.  

We have a full day sightseeing tomorrow. 

Wednesday 8th December - Varanasi/train

We had breakfast in the hotel and learned from one of the waiters about the bomb in the town. We went back to the room and put on the news and realised that we were lucky we had chosen to go on the evening boat trip the night we did.  An 18 month old girl was killed and about 25 other people were injured.  It was a small home made device but still big enough to cause damage.

As far as we are aware no-one has claimed responsibility.  Two men were arrested in Delhi for sending an e-mail claiming responsibility.  It seems strange that here in India they are more tolerant of other religions than anywhere else in the world.  Hindus and Muslims live side by side in harmony, never mind the Christians and Bhuddists too.  It makes you ask why.  Why would anyone want to harm innocent people?  I guess it is in the name of god.  If God wants you to go round killing and injuring people I am glad I am an atheist.

Our pick up was due at 7pm.  We asked repeatedly if it would be possible to extend our room but were told it was not possible.  We were kicked out of the room at 11am.  Only 8 hours to kill.

We went for a walk, the roads were much quieter and people were a little subdued.  A rickshaw driver latched on to us and was telling us that the area of the bomb was closed off and it was a bad area.  He chatted as we walked and kept trying to get us to hire him, very cheap 20 rupees for one hour, 10 rupees each, much cheaper than motor scooter.  I thought it was funny that he was following us everywhere we went.  Will was getting a little peeved.  We tried several evasive moves to lose him, just as we were congratulating ourselves he would turn up again.

Eagle eyed Will noticed a sign saying Bar so of course we had to investigate.  Rickshaw driver advised us good for beer, so off we went.  The bar was almost in total darkness in stark contrast to the bright daylight outside.  We chatted to the bar owner for a while and he put the English channel on the TV for us to watch.  Someone managed to film the actual blast from the previous night and it was repeated every 5 mins.  Eventually we all got bored of it and a music channel was put on, much more cheerful.

We were on our second drink when I noticed the menu.  We ordered some nibbles, veg pakora and paneer spring roll.  Wow! The pakora were the best we had ever tasted and the spring roll was lovely too.  At one point Will was staring at something behind me and told me not to look round.  I thought it was some sort of creepy crawly but apparently it was a mouse who was sitting in the breath freshener bowl.  When the owner brought us the bill in the breath freshener bowl Will didn’t even take it out to look, just threw some money in it.  We still think they were the best pakoras we have ever tasted and there were no nasty after affects.

We were in the bar about an hour and a half, rickshaw driver was waiting outside with his usual line of patter only 20 rupees for one hour etc.  He gave up on this tack and tried to engage us on a political level.  “Osama Bin Laden is a bad man, I don’t like him and George Bush is a good man”.  Thankfully we spotted a veg restaurant we had earlier mistaken for a pizza place and made a dash for it to escape the highbrow conversation.  Richshaw driver said that it was very expensive in there and offered to take us to the Indian market to buy pashminas, only 20 rupees etc.  I did wonder if he expected us to eat pashminas.

We had a couple of veg thalis that were very nice.  An hour or so later we came out of the restaurant and yes, you have guessed it, rickshaw driver was still waiting for us.   10 out of 10 for persistence and 8/10 for amusement value.  He followed us back to the hotel and seemed pleased that we said we would look for him the next day.  We fully expected him to follow us to Calcutta.

Only three hours to kill back in the hotel.  We bought 30 mins internet time and set about sending emails and facebook updates informing people that we were nowhere near the bomb blast.

We sat at a table and got out the cards.  We had been playing our game for about 30 mins when one of the girls came over to tell us that we were not allowed to play cards in the lobby.  We asked why, we were not gambling.  We were advised that the manager said that it was not permitted.  I think he was just cheesed off that we weren’t buying drinks at extortionate prices.  We were so pleased when the cab came to collect us.  We couldn’t wait to leave that hotel.

The guide told us that the station was 18km away and it would take us 45 mins.  We thought it was the traffic that would make the journey so slow.  Initially there was a bit of traffic but the real problem was unmade roads.  We bounced along for just over 30 mins.

We were told that the train was 20 minutes delayed and that we were not booked on the same carriage.  The guide went and swapped our tickets whilst we waited in the air conditioned car right opposite a purpose built urinal that remained largely unused as men much prefer to pee up the wall next to it.

After a while we grabbed our bags and ran the gauntlet of porters, beggars and fighting dogs between the car park and the station. We hefted our cases up and over to our platform and stood waiting.  The delay was now extended to 30 mins, then 50 mins and finally one hour.  We got chatting to a chap from Calcutta who had left his bag about a foot or two behind him and the rats had chewed their way through it.  The rats were daring devils running round and jumping on anything that was dropped that could have been food.  We were even entertained by rats fighting for a while.

Eventually we got on the train.  I was shocked to see that we were sharing a carriage with two other people, I don’t think they were that pleased either to see a female.  Will obviously elected me to have the top bunk and I pulled off some amazing monkey like climbing to actually get up there.  It seemed in less that 5 mins Will was asleep and snoring.  The old fella in the top bunk opposite me was coughing and grunting so I read for a while. 

I think the train eventually left Varanasi just over an hour and a half late.   Our rat bagged friend from the platform had advised us that it didn’t matter if the train left late it would still arrive on time, he was wrong we arrived an hour and half or so late.

Tuesday 7th December - Varanasi

You know what happens when you really need to get to sleep early, bing! You are wide awake.  Will and I read for ages before finally settling down for the night, only to wake up a couple of hours later at 2am and again be wide awake.  Anyway, we still managed to get out of bed and do the dawn trip.  It was pretty chilly but the faithful were bathing, some were even swimming.  One chap was singing and swimming, we were impressed.

We walked a little round the old town of Varanasi with its narrow winding alleys dodging cows, goats, mopeds and of course cow pats.  We saw the outside of the Kashi Vishwanath temple (golden temple) with its intricate carvings but were only allowed to peek through the doors at the internal splendour as we were non Hindus.  Close by is a famous mosque.  Security getting in the area was very tight, we were not allowed to carry anything in with us, were scanned and frisked.  They were either very thorough or just wanted to cop a feel of the fat white man’s family jewels.

The difference in the amount of people on the street from the previous night was startling, you could walk at least ten paces before someone tried to sell you postcards, bindhis, henna or some awful trinket whereas the previous night you had to contend with one person either side of you constantly. 

We had some masala tea in the old town area and actually bought some masala spices to make our own when we get home.  The shopkeeper assured us that the mixture was made by his 94 year old grandmother.  We were going to buy a wooden carving of Lord Ganesh but he tried to rip us off by quoting a ridiculously high starting price.   He tried to haggle a little but we walked away as we do not like to do business with people who are deliberately trying to rip off tourists.  A little profit is fine but blatant overcharging is wrong.

Back to the hotel for some breakfast and a nap before our afternoon excursion to see even more temples.  The most interesting one was called MotherIndia temple and was dedicated to the Indian nation.  Housed in it was a relief map of India and some of Indo-China made entirely of marble and perfectly to scale.  It took six years to make and the effect is breathtaking being able to see the Himalayas in contrast to the plans.

The guide discovered the previous evening that we had not tried South Indian food so he took us to a restaurant for lunch where we had Dosa, a very thin bread that was rolled into a tube about 18 inches wide.  With it came chutney, dal and a vegetable dish.  We were impressed and will be looking for Dosa again.

The rest of the day was spent lazing about before eating in the hotel due to the fact that there were no restaurants within walking distance. Before diner we heard a big bang and didn’t think too much of it as it is wedding season here and fireworks go off all the time.  Given the choice we would rather have eaten anywhere than in the hotel.  The prices were extortionate, probably because they know they are the only place to eat and drink locally. The only saving grace is that the restaurant staff are friendly and the food it pretty good.

Monday 6th December - Varanasi

After a good night’s sleep we were collected by our guide and taken to Sarnath, 10km from Varanasi, the place where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment.   We visited the archaeological museum, saw the ruins of many monasteries and stupas.  It was very interesting seeing where history was created.

Our guide asked us if we would like to do the evening riverboat ride on the Ganges which of course we did.  It was a fantastic sight, a vast array of small boats rowing down the river towards the outdoor crematorium.  The chief mourner of the family wears all white clothes.  There is no crying at the funeral, women are not allowed to attend due to their “gentle heart”.  The family stay with the body until it has been fully burnt, approx three hours they then go to the temple to pray.

There are rules as to who cannot be burned at an open cremation; pregnant women, children under the age of ten, those who have died due to a snake bite and those suffering with leprosy.   These bodies are cast adrift in the Ganges far upriver from where all the temples are.  

From our boat we witnessed an amazing ritual carried out simultaneously by five young priests in which they made offerings to the gods including incense, fire, feathers and water.  There were huge crowds gathered on the steps of the Ghat.  Bells were rung constantly and there was chanting and music. 

After we had got off the boat we mingled with the crowd in the busy streets where there were several wedding processions taking place.  We ate at a great vegetarian restaurant recommended by our guide then went home to bed in the hopes of getting lots of sleep.  Our next excursion was a dawn boat ride on the Ganges to see the pilgrims bathing.

Sunday 5th December - Varanasi

The Hotel Hindustan International is a fairly tired looking hotel.  The rooms are spacious and well furnished.  Everything looks either in need of a good clean or redecorating especially the bathroom that has dark damp patches and a badly fitting shower door causing water stains to the floor etc. 

After we eventually managed to get a cup of tea we went out for a walk to see what the local area had to offer by way of food and drink.  Varanasi is the oldest city in India and as such all of the shops are little kiosk type affairs.  We bought supplies of bottled water, mango juice and crisps but were unable to find any restaurants or places to have a drink.

We returned to the hotel slightly dusty and amused at the fact we had caused a small traffic jam because people wanted to stop and stare at us.  Fat white people must be a novelty here.

We had dinner in the hotel’s Indian restaurant. The food was superb and the waiting staff were great, helpfully describing things to us.  Neither of us had the heart to tell them that we knew exactly what everything on the menu was.

Friday 3rd/Saturday 4th December - Delhi/Varanasi

After only a short delay of an hour our flight took off. We were hoping the flight would be quiet and we would have a spare seat, no such luck.  Upon arrival in Doha we found a smoking room.  I had time for one quick ciggy before we boarded the next plane.

India Ghandi International airport had changed so much in just a year we hardly recognised it.  Clean, air conditioned and organised.  The only downside was that instead of coming outside the terminal and jumping into a car you now have to walk for miles to get to the multi storey car park.

We were taken to our hotel by a nice man called Francis who advised that Vinay, our travel agent would be meeting us there.  The Star Rock hotel in South Delhi was very nice, clean rooms with large flat screen on the wall with cable tv.  The bathroom was so state of the art we had to have lessons on how to use the taps and shower.

After travelling for 19 hours we were tired and a bit wiffy.  After a quick sluice in the ultra modern shower we were ready for a good long nap.  Of course as our heads hit the pillows Vinay called us on the internal phone to say he was here.  We said our hellos handed over payment for our trip and give him his present of two bottle of Glenfiddich chatted for a while and decided to meet up in the morning to go over the itinerary.

We went back to our room for our longed for nap.  After a few hours we woke up and as instructed, called our friend Gurdip who lives in Delhi.  We were expecting to meet his sons, see his dogs and go for something to eat.  However, Gurdip neglected to tell us that we would be attending an engagement party.  We were dressed for Delhi not Delhi society.  Will was wearing cammo shorts and a tee shirt proclaiming “Dos Chevesas por favor” with an attractive picture of two pints on it.  I was a little better for a change not wearing cammos.

We went to Gurdip’s house and were surprised at the size, the lounge was huge, as big as the ground floor of our whole house.  We greeted a chap at the door warmly as we thought he was a family member, he turned out to be a servant.  Gudip’s mum was an amazing lady who kept us entertained whilst the boys showered and put on their good suits. 

We drove to this fantastic venue with hundreds of people dressed to the nines.  On our way there Gurdip came up with the idea of telling people that our luggage had not arrived.  We were greeted warmly by the families.  There were so many staff bringing fantastic nibbles constantly.  Then came the ring ceremony where the affianced were on a large stage under a beautiful canopy of pink silk.  After the ceremony the bar was opened. 

Gudip was pouring Chivas Regal down Will like there was no tomorrow.  Luckily all the food soaked most of it up.  The evening was a little chilly, I was glad I bought a cardie as then Gurdip advised us that food would be served outside.  We thought the nibbles were the food!

Outside there must have been at least 100 staff serving all manner of food.  There were two massive salad stations, pasta, bread being cooked while you wait and various chairs and sofas to sit at.  We had a big plateful of food and then went back to the party.  The females from the girl’s side of the family did a dance and then the bride danced on her own.  There followed more dancing and drinking.  Some of the dresses were amazing, covered in rhinestones and tiny glittering jewels it really was a spectacular sight to see.

By midnight we were flagging badly so Gurdip drove us back to the hotel where we slept the sleep of the dead until 9am on Sunday morning.

We had a good breakfast then met Vinay.  Our flight to Varanasi was delayed so we spent a few hours at the airport eating some of the best samosas you have ever tasted.  Finally the flight was called so we went and queued at the gate.  It turned out they had changed the gate so we were in the wrong queue.  We found the right gate and joined the queue.  This again turned out to be the wrong queue but finally we made it. 

After a short flight we arrived in Varanasi and were taken to our hotel.  The Hotel Industan International.  We unpacked our bags and were ready for a cup of tea.  A sign in our room proclaimed that tea/coffee making facilities were available on request.  Not our request though, lucky we brought our trusty kettle.  The next problem was the sockets are not the same here as in Delhi and our adapters didn’t work.  We again called housekeeping who brought us a four way adapter with a blown fuse.  Once more the poor man came back with another adapter and it worked, we were able to have tea.

Today is the day

Sitting waiting for the taxi watching all the snow and freezing temperatures on the TV. 

Looking forward to Delhi and seeing Gurdip, family and dogs.